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Selecting a Paddle:
A few basic considerations are in order as you try
to find the right paddle for yourself.
I'm going to be updating this page as time goes by here, so feel free to check back once in awhile.
There are obviously quite a few factors to consider when you are getting a paddle. Don't get too wrapped up in 'new stuff'. There aren't too many things that will make you go faster. SO it's really just a matter of what will allow you to paddle most efficiently, while you enjoy using the paddle. I mean let's face it, the bloody thing has to be comfortable! That's the hugest priority with a paddle. You shouldn't have to accodomate it!!
I've made paddles for just about always it seems, and will continue to do so forever -- at least for my forever. There's not just one paddle for you. I have several that will fit you -- and mostly for you it's just deciding how light, how long, how wide, and how much....I make all my paddles, so it's not like getting my least expensive blade is going to be that much different than getting my most expensive, other than complexity of layup, looks and weight -- you know, all those things that make paddles cost more!
SO heck, check back, ask questions....Brad
What's worse: to short, or too long? And how much does it really matter> Too short usually means a stroke is going to be too easy, and will be accompanied by exaggerated body movements, as you try to reach the water. There isn't enuf room between your lower hand and the top of the blade for proper leverage, and you 'arm' the blade too much. Too long means increased leverage, but more fatigue, unless you really acclimate to using the longer shaft. The increased leverage produced by the distance between the lower hand and the shaft, and the distance between the upper hand and the lower hand, means a longer, stronger stroke -- and unless you are in shape to do it efficiently, you get sloppy and inneffective. A half inch or thereabouts won't kill you. But if you need a 50"er and get a 53"er, you are in for a load of extra work!
One thing I really want to emphasize about paddle designs is this:
frankly, the design of a paddle blade is not the crucial factor! I make quite a
few different designs, but it's not like I really say, hey, this one here is
just the cat's meow for the best paddlers. There is no such thing. The crucial
factor in what makes a blade work for you has much more to do with blade
dynamics and shaft comfort. The newest thing is the Surge design blade (Zav,
Wily Coyote...etc..). This is a very interesting blade. Especially to look at.
But for outrigger paddlers, the actual shape of the blade is close to
meaningless in it's added value when paddling. It's a funky blade. I like it.
But it paddles no better than a PM shaped blade. It will probably feel more
comfortable to fast cadence paddlers because of the reduced blade area -- when
compared to more standard size blades.
You should be seeking a blade
that is easily embraced by the water. You don't want sploshing going on all
around the blade as it enters the water. You want a tight fit. And big clunky
plastic or wood tips don't enter smoothly. I've found that the moderate lip on
the powerface is a nice way to get that blade smoothly into the water.
You also don't want a blade that is monstrous, even if you are Hercules
or Wonderwoman. Your size doesn't really affect the size of your blade. You just
want enough size so that the blade plants itself, and you can vault by it. It
doesn't take a lot of blade to do that. I find that in most situations, 9" blade
is fine. Don't let that shaft get too long either. It is unnecessarily fatiguing
to stroke with a long shaft. It increases your leverage on the water. Don't let
it get too short either. You don't want to be leaning out of the canoe reaching
down for the water, with your hand on the top of the blade. That gives you no
leverage at all, and has the effect of 'arming' the blade (so that your arm
becomes the shaft).
Special paddle information: Below is some special
information that might help you with your paddle selection.
What about
angles? Choosing an angle is really not that complex. The double angle is
something I created nearly 20 years ago, and it's purpose was to alleviate wrist
fatigue by oriented the lower portion of the shaft back somewhat so that it more
naturally aligned with the wrist. It also has a slightly different feel to it
than the straight angled paddles. And, is angled at about l degree more.
Paddlers have informed me that the double angle also is kinder to their
shoulders.
Greater angles generally go with a higher cadence. The
straighter paddles are more for a slower cadence, and would be more appropriate
for shorter races, and sprints. A paddle that is angled about l0 degree is good
for outrigger racing. A l0 degree angle gives you good leverage and efficiency
at the same time. My own double angles are about l2 degrees overall. The plant
of the blade in the water feels a bit different, but is quite comfortable. Is it
more efficient? It might be, but the angles in the double angle are really a
matter of comfort.
Paddles specs:, blade width, length: Blade width of
course has a lot to do with resistance. The wider the blade, the more water that
is held. If you go with wider blades, you should consider shorter paddles. The
shorter paddles create less sweep for the blade, shortening the length of the
stroke, and making for less resistance. If you go with a longer paddle, you are
going to have a longer stroke -- and if you have to pack this stroke into a
certain cadence, it means more fatigue, and quicker oxygen debt. The shaft
length really has more to do with resistance than the blade width. Longer shafts
are something only those who are in very good shape, with very strong strokes,
should be interested in. If you are in the kind of shape that warrants a longer
shaft, then by all means go with it. Your reach is increased, meaning you can
place the power ahead of your body, which is where it belongs.
-- feel free to contact me with questions or input. Brad
G
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